Sanur and Nusa Dua are the calm side of south Bali: two resort areas on the east-facing coast, away from the surf and the nightlife of Kuta and Seminyak. Sanur is a long-established beach town; Nusa Dua is an enclave of large resorts. Both suit families and travelers who want quiet, and Sanur is the main port for boats to the Nusa islands.
Where they are
Sanur and Nusa Dua both face east, on the opposite shore from Bali's sunset beaches. Sanur is about 11 miles from the airport by road, on the edge of the capital, Denpasar. Nusa Dua is about 8 miles from the airport, on the eastern side of the Bukit peninsula. The two are about 13 miles apart.
The east-facing coast
Facing east changes the day. The sun rises over the sea here and sets behind the land, so this coast is for sunrise walks, not sunset drinks on the beach. Surf guides describe the east-facing coast as the side with cleaner conditions in the wet season, from about November to March.
Two regencies
Sanur belongs to the city of Denpasar and Nusa Dua to Badung regency. In Badung the local tax on restaurant food and drink and on hotel stays is 10%. We have not sourced Denpasar's rate, so check the foot of the menu in Sanur for what is added.
Sanur
Sanur is an established resort town on the edge of Denpasar. Travel guides describe it as a mature tourist town that appeals mostly to families and older visitors, with well-priced accommodation and easy beach access. Our view is that it is the most relaxed of the southern bases.
What Sanur is like
Our description of Sanur, drawn from how guides present it, is of a compact town that is easy on foot. The pace is slower than on the west coast, and the evenings are quiet. Travelers looking for beach clubs and late nights will find little of either. Travelers who want to read a book under a tree by the sea will find exactly that.
The harbor
Sanur's harbor is the main departure point for boats to Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida. Travel guides give the crossing as roughly 30 to 45 minutes; check with the operator, since we have no official schedule. Staying in Sanur the night before a boat removes a cross-town drive from the morning.
Nusa Dua
Nusa Dua is a purpose-built resort area. Travel guides describe it as an enclave of high-end resorts with a long golden sand beach and very little traffic. The hotels are large and self-contained, and it sits about 8 miles from the airport on the eastern side of the Bukit peninsula.
What Nusa Dua is like
Nusa Dua feels different from the rest of Bali, by design. It is orderly, quiet and separate from village life. Our view is that it suits travelers who want a resort vacation with reliable standards, and that it will disappoint travelers who want to step out of the hotel into a Balinese street.
Eating out
Because the area is built around resorts, most meals are eaten inside one. Resort restaurant prices carry the 10% local tax and often a service charge. Travelers on a budget should compare the final price including both, or plan some meals outside the enclave.