Sidemen and Amed: East Bali

Sidemen and Amed are the two quiet bases of East Bali. Sidemen is an inland valley of rice terraces below Mount Agung, about 22 miles from Ubud. Amed is a strip of fishing villages on the northeast coast, about 49 miles from Ubud, known for snorkeling and diving from the beach. Together they show the calmer side of the island, and they suit a trip of ten days or more.

East Bali in outline

East Bali is the region under Mount Agung, the island's highest mountain. Travel guides describe it as laid-back coastal villages and volcanic scenery. Besides Sidemen and Amed it includes the port of Padang Bai, the quiet coastal town of Candidasa, the water palace of Tirta Gangga and Pura Besakih, the temple regarded as the mother temple of Balinese Hinduism.

How far it is

The east is close to Ubud and far from the southern beaches. By road Sidemen is about 22 miles from Ubud and about 35 from the airport; Amed is about 49 miles from Ubud and about 61 from the airport. We give no drive times. The roads are slower and emptier than in the south.

Sidemen

Sidemen is a valley in the foothills of Mount Agung. Travel guides describe the drive through it as one of the most scenic on the island, with rice terraces and forested hillsides, and note that the walking is undemanding. There is no town center to speak of; the valley itself is the attraction.

What to do in Sidemen

Sidemen is for walking through rice fields, sitting on a terrace with a view of the volcano, and doing very little. Our view is that it offers what many visitors hope to find around Ubud and no longer do: terraces without crowds. Ask your accommodation for a walking route or a local guide.

Besakih from Sidemen

Pura Besakih lies on the slopes of Mount Agung, north of the valley. Travel guides describe a complex of more than twenty temples spread over about three kilometers. It is the most important temple on the island, so Bali's rules on dress and on entering inner courtyards apply in full.

Amed

Amed is a coastal strip running about 14 kilometers, or 9 miles, along the northeast shore, through seven villages including Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah and Selang. Travel guides describe black and grey sand and pebble beaches lined with outrigger fishing boats, traditional salt making, and views of Mount Agung.

Snorkeling and diving

Amed is known for coral reefs close to shore, which makes snorkeling possible from the beach. Travel guides also mention a Japanese shipwreck in shallow water along the strip. We rate no site for difficulty or depth. The State Department notes that diving in Indonesia can be dangerous because safety regulation is minimal, so choose an operator with care.

The Liberty wreck at Tulamben

Up the coast at Tulamben lies the USAT Liberty, a US Army transport ship torpedoed by a Japanese submarine in 1942. It is one of the best-known wreck dives in Indonesia, and divers staying in Amed commonly visit it on a day trip. Check your travel insurance for how it treats scuba diving before you book.

Around Amed

The Tirta Gangga water palace is a day trip from Amed, and the Lempuyang temple complex is about 9 miles away by road. Amed is spread out along the coast, and travel guides note that local public transport is limited, so a driver or a short ride is needed to move between villages.

Sidemen or Amed

Sidemen and Amed answer different wishes. Sidemen is green, inland and close to Ubud; it is about walking and views. Amed is dry, coastal and further away; it is about the sea. A traveler with time for only one should choose by whether they want rice terraces or a reef.

Doing both

The two are about 26 miles apart by road, so they combine naturally in one loop: Ubud to Sidemen, Sidemen to Amed, and back along the coast. Our advice is at least two nights in each. A single night in either is mostly packing and unpacking.

The sea in the east

The east coast faces a different stretch of water from the southern resorts. We have no official source on sea conditions at Amed's beaches, so we call none of them safe. Ask where local people swim and snorkel, and stay close to shore.

Getting there and around

East Bali is reached by road from Ubud or the south. A car with a driver is the practical choice, and the transfer can include stops such as Tirta Gangga. A scooter requires a license matching the type of vehicle driven under Indonesian law.

Boats from the east

Padang Bai is the port for the ferry to Lombok, and travel guides note fast boats to the Gili Islands from Padang Bai and from Amed. We have no official schedule or safety rules for them, so check directly with an operator and read our page on the Gili crossing before you plan around a boat.

Money and supplies

Our advice is to bring cash and anything you depend on. The State Department says adequate medical care may be harder to find in rural areas of Indonesia. Bali's rules for visitors say to change money only at authorized changers, which are easier to find in the towns you pass on the way.

Who East Bali suits

East Bali suits divers, snorkelers, walkers, couples and anyone who wants a quieter island than the one in the south. It suits a longer trip. On a first visit of one week it competes with Ubud and the beaches for limited days, and most travelers will choose those first.

Mount Agung

Mount Agung dominates the east and is of great spiritual importance to the Balinese. It is an active volcano. Climbing it is a serious undertaking, and conditions and permissions change; we give no route advice. Ask locally and check the current status before planning any climb.