Bali divides into six parts for a visitor: the built-up south, Ubud and the central hills, the quiet east, the north coast, the far west, and three small islands off the southeast shore. The island is about 89 miles from east to west and 50 from north to south. Most first trips happen in the south and around Ubud, which are about 22 miles from the airport to Ubud apart.
The six parts of Bali
Bali's regions, as travel guides divide them, are South Bali, Central Bali, East Bali, North Bali, West Bali and the southeastern islands. The south holds the airport and most of the hotels. The center holds Ubud and the mountain lakes. The east and north are quieter coasts, and the west is the least visited.
Why the map misleads
The island is small, and a first-time visitor reads the map as a place where everything is a short drive away. In miles that is true. In hours it is not, because the roads are narrow and busy. Choosing where to stay in Bali is really choosing which of these regions you will see without a long drive.
The island, by where you would sleep: Seminyak & Canggu · Uluwatu & the Bukit · Sanur · Ubud · Sidemen · Amed · Munduk & the north · Nusa Lembongan · Nusa Penida. (Enable JavaScript for the interactive map.)
South Bali: the beach resorts
South Bali is the most visited part of the island, and it is several different places sharing one coast. Travel guides describe Kuta as the most heavily developed area, Seminyak as quieter and more upscale, Canggu as a fast-developing stretch of surf beaches and rice fields, and Sanur and Nusa Dua as the calmer resort areas on the other shore.
The west-facing strip
Kuta, Legian, Seminyak and Canggu run north from the airport along the west-facing coast, in that order. The airport is about 4 miles from Kuta, 7 from Seminyak and 12 from Canggu. This is where the sunset beaches, the restaurants and the nightlife are concentrated, and where the traffic is heaviest.
The Bukit peninsula
The Bukit is the limestone peninsula at the island's southern tip, below the airport. Travel guides describe it as rugged, with white sand beaches under cliffs and the temple of Uluwatu on a cliff edge. Uluwatu is about 13 miles from the airport. Jimbaran, at the neck of the peninsula, is known for its sheltered beach.
The east-facing resorts
Sanur and Nusa Dua face east, away from the sunset coast. Travel guides describe Sanur as a mature resort town popular with families and older visitors, and Nusa Dua as an enclave of high-end resorts with little traffic. Sanur is about 11 miles from the airport and Nusa Dua about 8. Boats to the small islands leave from Sanur.
Central Bali: Ubud and the hills
Central Bali is the island's cultural heart, in the words of the travel guides, and it contains the central mountain range. Ubud is its main town, sitting at about 200 meters above sea level and regarded as the center of Balinese arts. It is inland, with no beach, and cooler than the coast.
Around Ubud
Ubud is surrounded by villages and rice terraces. The Tegallalang terraces are about 6 miles to the north, and the crater rim at Kintamani, overlooking the active volcano Mount Batur, is about 27 miles away. Bali's rice-terrace landscape and its water temples are a UNESCO World Heritage site, inscribed in 2012.
The mountain lakes
Higher up, in the central mountains, travel guides describe Bedugul as an area of lakes, a botanical garden and the lakeside temple of Ulun Danu Bratan. Munduk lies further on, about 39 miles from Ubud by road. The air is cooler at altitude, and the pace is slower.