Bali Honeymoon: How to Split the Nights

The best split for a Bali honeymoon is two or three bases, starting somewhere quiet to recover from the wedding and the flight, and ending by the sea near the airport. For ten nights, a split that works is four nights around Ubud, three on an island or in East Bali, and three at a beach base. Fewer moves and longer stays suit a honeymoon better than a tour.

What a honeymoon needs from a route

A honeymoon differs from an ordinary vacation in what it is for. Most couples arrive tired, from the wedding and from a journey with at least one connection across 12 or more time zones. The trip should begin with rest, hold its adventures for the middle, and end without a rush for the plane.

Fewer bases, longer stays

By our estimate, a hotel change costs about half a day of packing and driving. Our view is that a honeymoon of ten nights should have three bases at most, and that two is often better. Three nights in a place is our working minimum, and four or five in the first one lets the trip start slowly.

Where to start

The first base should be the calmest. The CDC advises allowing at least two days for jet lag before anything important, and after a wedding the need is greater. The countryside around Ubud suits this well: a villa or small hotel among rice fields, cooler than the coast, with nothing that has to be done.

Ubud's villages

Ubud is made up of fourteen villages, and the quieter ones lie around the center. Travel guides describe the town center as crowded and congested. A place outside it offers privacy and views, at the cost of a ride into town for dinner; ask about a shuttle.

What to do in the first days

Do little. Our advice is a massage, a walk through the fields and one early dinner out. On the third day, hire a driver for the rice terraces and a temple. Jet lag wakes Americans early in Bali, and early mornings among the terraces are the best use of it.

The middle of the trip

The middle nights are for the adventurous part, when you are rested and the flight home is still far off. The choice is between an island and the quieter side of the mainland. Each gives a change of scene from Ubud, and each is far enough to need its own nights.

An island

Nusa Lembongan lies off the southeast coast, roughly 30 to 45 minutes from Sanur by boat according to travel guides. It is small, nearly free of cars, and suited to snorkeling and long lunches. Travel guides note that most boats involve a wet landing, wading from the beach, so pack light for this leg.

East Bali

Couples who would sooner avoid boats can go east. Sidemen, about 22 miles from Ubud, is a valley of rice terraces below Mount Agung, described by travel guides as one of the most scenic parts of the island. Amed, about 49 miles from Ubud, offers snorkeling from the beach and very quiet evenings.

The highlands

A third possibility is Munduk, about 39 miles from Ubud, at more than 700 meters, with waterfalls and cool air. Our view is that it suits couples who like walking and do not mind a sweater in the evening.

Where to finish

The last base should be by the sea and close to the airport. The Bukit peninsula, with Uluwatu about 13 miles from the terminal, offers cliff views and privacy. Seminyak, about 7 miles away, offers restaurants and beach walks. Nusa Dua, about 8 miles away, offers large resorts with everything on site.

Choosing the final base

These are our own suggestions. Choose the Bukit for seclusion and scenery. Choose Seminyak if you want to dress up and eat well. Choose Nusa Dua or Sanur for calm and ease. All three keep the drive to the airport short on the last morning.

Keep boats out of the last days

Whatever the middle of the trip holds, come back to the mainland with days to spare. Boats depend on the sea, and we have no official source on how often they are delayed. A honeymoon is a poor trip on which to test the margin before an international flight.

Splits by length

The split of a Bali honeymoon depends on how many nights you have. These are our own suggestions, with no prices. Each one starts with the longest stay near Ubud, puts any boat in the middle, and ends at a beach base near the airport.

• 7 nights: 4 near Ubud, 3 at the beach.
• 10 nights: 4 near Ubud, 3 on an island or in the east, 3 at the beach.
• 14 nights: 4 near Ubud, 3 in the highlands or east, 3 on an island, 4 at the beach.

When to go

South Bali's climate record shows the driest months as July and August, at about 1 inch of rain, and the wettest as December to February. May, June and September have low rainfall and fall outside the northern summer peak. A honeymoon that follows a summer wedding lands in the dry season.

Practical matters couples forget

A few practical points matter more on a honeymoon than they seem to. If either of you has changed a name, the flight booking, the passport and the visa must all match the passport you travel on. The passport must be valid for 6 months beyond your arrival date and have 2 blank pages.

Insurance and health

The State Department highly recommends travel insurance for Indonesia and strongly recommends cover for medical evacuation. Anyone who is pregnant or planning a pregnancy should read the CDC's current Level 2 travel health notice for Zika in Bali and talk to a doctor before booking.

Villas

Bali's rules require visitors to stay in licensed accommodation. Ask a villa for its license details, check whether the bedroom is enclosed and air-conditioned, and compare prices with tax and service included. How to order the bases around your flights is set out in Bali, in Its Own Time.